China: there's what I've heard, and then there's what I've experienced. More often than not, the two are remarkably similar, and the observations which follow are a testament to the accuracy of previous travelogues.
1. THE PEOPLE...
are just as friendly as they are reputed to be.
2. THE EXCEPTION...
is "business" situations, by which I mean situations in which I am the customer. Service, from restaurants to photo shops, is bu tai hao (not so good). The customer does not come first unless he knows somebody. This is an illustration of the Chinese concept of guanxi ("connections"), which are necessary, not only for good service, but also, e.g., for getting a job. I recall my plane-friend, Xiao3xue3 (Serena was her English name) telling me that it was hard for her to get a job in Beijing because of her own lack of connections. Whereas money or experience might "talk" in America, in the Middle Country it's all about whom you know.
2.5. THE EXCEPTION TO THE EXCEPTION...
is the man at the convenience desk on the first floor. He is always friendly to me.
3. THE ECCENTRICITY...
is real. The "cool" of China is way too cool for me. Just saw a man on TV with a huge blue flower in his vest and sporting large black earrings. Whoa. A lot of folks have shirts with English writing (reminds me of the Chinese and Japanese characters which many Americans sport). Saw one guy with a pink shirt that said: "VIRGINS WANTED. No experience necessary." I wonder whether he knew what it said. Either way, it was creepy.
English translations are everywhere--on signs, etc.--and are often semi-nonsensical. In the parking lot of our classroom building is a sign prohibiting "boardskating", and at the airport, the people-movers were termed "escalators" on the signs.
4. THE SMOG...
is also real, but not as bad as some have said. I can see patches of blue sky even as I write.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
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clearly (a sentence adverb chosen with care), the sky has improved since i was there. we couldn't see trees less than 100 meters in front of us, let alone blue sky. I think the olympics have changed some things about Beijing.
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